Slightly Doolally

Away back on the 10th April last year I set myself a target of 1000 miles before the 10th April 2012. I passed the 1000 mile target yesterday 2 months early!!

🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂 looking at my stats collected by Cardiotrainer (an Android app) I averaged 99.75 miles a month, and of the 1000 miles I did 478 miles of uphill walking and 522 miles of downhill walking – not quite sure why I have and excess of downhill walking, perhaps the bon mot that “everything goes downhill after 50” is actually true. I averaged a speed of 3.1 mph and burned 627 bananas worth of calories (they also use avacadoes but I HATE avacadoes).

Since I am looking at 1200 miles this year I have re-set my target to 1300 miles which means I have to walk 150 miles in Feb 150 miles in March (and the first 10 days of April) which is do-able but not easy-peasy.

I have been a bit remiss over the last couple of weeks and my weekly “Summit for the weekend” posts have not been quite as prompt as they should have been, but hey ho such is the way the cookie crumbles. 🙂

I dander the full 17 mile length of the Giant’s Causeway at least once a year and 2011 was no exception. As for the last 4 years the walk is one where I am fire out an invite to all and sundry to come join me and this year was no exception I was joined by Andy Clark, Mary, Ashling Dearle and Stephen Mooney. Sadly Eileen Fitzgerald who had wanted to come found herself injured and thought it best on this occasion to have a weekend off and let her injuries heal. Friday night drinkies were drunk before delivering Ashling and Stephen over to my mother’s spare room for a relatively early night.

The Team Photo

The problem with dandering in winter is the available daylight is reduced to a minimum of 7 hours which is just about right for 17 miles if you start bright and early in the morning which is what we managed to do. Starting in Balintoy at 9:30am we headed west into a brightening day. Several of the team had not been up in this neck of the woods before so every corner was new to them which was rather nice as it does one good to show off the natural beauty of one’s back yard. Being gifted with living in an AONGD (Area of Naturally Outstandingly Great Dandering) one can become blasé about the environment.

White Park Bay

Off around the coast we wandered and onto the fine stretch of sand that is White park bay, through the odd little hamlet of Portbradden with it’s cannons anchor and smallest chapel in the north ( St. Gobban’s), (Note to self – it could do with a tea room for Danderers)

Portbradden

And onward westerly through the natural arch locally called “The Eye” under Templastragh church

"The Eye" on the coast path

Dunseverick

And on past Dunseverick Castle or what is left of it, which admittedly is not a lot but you get the idea that there was a castle there and it did (does) have a spectacular view and has some interesting myths. I really must write down the story of “The Sorrowing of Conal Cernach” one of these days… Anyway …this is the point at which thing start going up onto the causeway cliff path above the columnar rocks that make up the natural wonder that is the Giant’s causeway. Given there was a wee bit of up and downery I had to pull back a little and let the gammy leg recover a couple of times. But I am glad to say the frequency I have to do this is slowly decreasing as the leg gets used to the abuse I on occasions throw at it. The rest of our merry crew had no difficultly and even the other Stephen (not a regular walker) was keeping up a steady lick

The Causeway from 200m above

Sadly the Shepard’s Steps were closed so we couldn’t get down onto the causeway itself and had to keep to the cliff path, but this meant we got the alternate ..”Feck it is a long way down” view from “the causeway pulpit”. and yes that is the edge of the cliff in the picture. Mr Mooney I have to say has no fear of heights or the falling off same, thankfully it wasn’t too windy!

From there on through Portballintrae were we stopped for a drink, a sandwich and a rest of the legs looking out over the bay.

The Wee Cottage, Dunluce

Then up and onward towards Portrush and the finishing line. Now we were blessed with some cracking weather for November. Stunning clouds, not to much wind and the occasional flash of sun, in fact it was that mild that we were all down to fleeces by the time we went round “ooh ahh” corner and caught sight of Dunluce Castle for the first time and as fortune would have it the only rain of the day started to fall JUST as we passed Andy’s cousin Avril’s tea room “The Wee Cottage” where we took shelter and indulged in the danderers delight – Scones, butter, cream, raspberry jam,a slice or two of fresh  strawberry, pancakes direct from the griddle with butter, lemon juice, maple syrup and of course BIG mugs of tea. Once the rain

Sunset

having eased and daylight being at a premium we headed off again, down onto the East Strand at the white rocks and into a specially arranged amazing sunset we arrived back in Portrush’s Harbour bar, tired and bang on the expected end time.

A Grand days dandering with good chums, great craic and brilliant weather what more could you ask for?

Back home for a quick shower and then we repaired back to the Harbour Bar for some grub. It has to be said that when i mentioned to Niall (my son) did he want some £’s for a takeaway or would he like to come and join “the olds” in the harbour it took all of a nanosecond for him to say “the harbour please” such is the drawing power of that establishment … and once again the HB did not let us down a fine time was had by all 🙂

The next day Ashling Stephen and I did Mussenden and Gortmore up the Bishop’s road, well we have a plethora of wonderful views, why shouldn’t I not show it off 😉

A great weekend dandering loads of craic, thanks to all for coming!!!

Since I had done the westerly walk last week this week I decided that it would be a easterly dander this week, so with this in mind it was off to Ballycastle at 9am this morning into the teeth of a North Easterly gale. Not the best dandering weather but it didnt half make the views stunning!.

The Children of Lir

I have to say Moyle council have done their rate payers proud with this bit of public art based on The Children of Lir, and old tale of evil step-parents, spells and sadness. Basically Fionnuala, Aodh, Fiachra and Conn the children of King Lir were changed into swans for 1000 years and as part of their wanderings they came to the straits of Moyle and as a result of this tale many houses have ornamental swans and this this recent stainless steel sculptural representation of the 4 cursed children just takes my breath away, well done Moyle council!

Kabooooooooosh!

Fair Head is a favourite walk of mine and today it did not let me down! The North channel that separates Ireland from Scotland is narrow and full of dangerous currents and tidal rips which means that it is not a nice flat bit of water at the best of times. Today it was torn by a 6 foot swell and very high tide. Incidentally I have discovered one of the secrets of Professional Photographers .. when taking pictures of big waves ensure that you are watching your feet as well as the waves for failure to do that leads to very

An "Oooh Ahhh" moment

wet feet in addition to spectacular photographs. The wind and sharp heavy squalls of rain had kept all but the most hardy folks (like me) in their beds, this sadly meant that the stunning views and raw elemental beauty of the north coast in the teeth of a November gale was lost to the majority of the locals. But then again getting muck all over your feet, up the legs of your trousers (what is called locally as being “Clabbered to the knee”) and getting buffeted and  blown hither and thither is probably not everyone’s cup of tea on a Sunday morning .. *sigh* aye well tis their loss 🙂 and my gain!.

Ballycastle from Fair Head

I kept up a good lick and made the top of Fair head in a couple of hours and then started the wander back into Ballycastle down the back roads of Ballyvoy, Barnish and Corrymeela. Which while not as spectacular as the coastal path has the merit of being very quiet and when walking alone it affords the danderer moments of reflection that help to put the week just finished into perspective and set you up for the one that is being born as you walk.

Old Cross

I have walked this road many many times over the last 35 years yet I have never noticed this old celtic cross planted in the hedge on the left hand side of the road about a mile outside Ballycastle. It is marked on the Ordinance Survey Map as a Cross but I had always looked for it closer to Bonamargy Friary and missed it. Which just goes to show that you see new exciting things most days if you just get out there and look 🙂

So that’s it … a post about dandering, friends, food, swans, muck, waves, gales and forgotten crosses when push comes to shove what more can a body ask for in life

Toodle pip for the now.

Portstewart harbour

Out again this Sunday with Andy Clark and his tireless Springer/Cocker puppy “Tara” and the destination choosen was the small harbour town of Portstewart some 5 miles away from Chez McDonagh. Oddly, given the last few days of deluge, pish and mizzel the fact that the day started with an azure blue sky, a hint of autumnal frost and the odd whisp of mist, meant that the bold Mr Clarke and I set off on our weekly dander with a spring in our steps that was uncommon for the time of year

OHara's Castle

Our walk took us along the prom and up under O’Hara’s Castle now home of the Dominican convent school and along the nun’s walk past Port na’happle and down onto Portstewart Strand. This is a well trodden Sunday Dander for the amateur danderer. Although at 9am on a sunday morning there were few if any fellow strollers out and about.

Although there were a flock of cormorants and gulls making an unholy row on the rocks under the play park near the witch’s hat. As a fisherman I have mixed feelings about cormoants and the whole shag family. If they are around then there are fish around however … they fish a little to well 🙁

Impromptue Art

On the wander around we passed the site of the old Strand Hotel site of many an evening of bacchanalian excess in both Mr Clark’s and my ancient history and on the rock we came apon an act of impromptue art. The Whys and Wherefores remain a mystery and it stands there testament to someone taking 10 minutes to make a balanced cairn of 4 stones as a monument to.. well … something.

I applaud them and it makes a damn fine photo on this glorious morning!

Portstweart Strand

Onward over the rise and down onto what is for me one of the finest stretches of sand anywhere in the world….. Portstewart Strand. With the north atlantic on one side and the rich earth of the Bann esturary on the other this 3 miles of shore yhas much of interest to the walker. In 2000, the 180 acre dune system at Portstewart was included within the Bann Estuary Area of Special Scientific Interest, for the rare and fragile habitats/wildlife that it supports. In particular many species of butterflies and orchids including the rare bee orchid have been recorded, and can be viewed from the way marked trails. The combination of open sand, dunes and damp hollows or slacks provides a mosaic of habitats rich in plants and insects. The dunes reach heights of up to 100ft, were formed around 6,000 years ago and have significant Neolithic archaeological interest… and most importantly it was also the beach where I first managed to stand up on a surf board and ride a wave. A fact sadly missing from the information boards posted along the paths. 🙁

We dander the full length of the beach and then at the bar mouth where the river Bann meets the see we turned in and walked through the dunes down the way marked trail turning inland at the end of the Golf course to appear once again on the outskirts of Burnside and from there it was a road walk back to the car and home.

It was odd and worthy of repeating that I sit here typing in November and I have a tight hot sun tingled forehead .. weird very weird!

Binevenagh (courtesy of Magilligan Gliders)

Righty Ho! Sunday’s dander this week was up a ridge on the North Coast above Magilligan. The ridge in question is Binn Fhoibhne (Foibhne’s peak – remember “bh” in irish is a “v”)  or Binevenagh in English.  This ridge marks the old coast line when in times ancient the sea level was a lot higher. Part of the greater Giants causeway it runs along the coast from Castlerock in the East to the Sperrins in the west and is yet another summit the “Bog Faeries” had to tick off their list of “Summits for the weekend”.

The Moon stayed up late for the Rugby Semi Finals

Oddly for October and even more odd given the ghastly misely pish of yesterday, today started with an azure blue sky and a slight breeze. Not summer by any stretch of the imagination but one of those rare Autumn mornings where both the sun and moon were hanging on in the blue blanket of the heavens, probably waiting to see if Australia or New Zealand made it to the Rugby world cup finals.

St.Aidan's

Andy picked me up at Chez McDonagh at 8:30 am  and we arrived at the walk start point just before 9.am. We start at a place long steeped in mystery both pagan and Christian. The earliest remains of a church at St Aidan’s date back to the 13th century The Church, originally known as Tamhlacht Oirthear Arda, became known first as Teampall Chadáin or St Cadan’s Church, and this through similarity in pronunciation was altered to St Aidan’s. St Cadan was a follower of St Patrick and his grave lies under the gable of the medieval ruins. Whether St.Aidan of Lindisfarne had anything to do with this church is a moot point

St.Aidan's Well

There is a “holy” well beside the ruins which is reputed to cure any ill if the water is applied to the affected area. Excavations and local lore would indicate that this well has been in continuous spiritual use for thousands of years even as far back as the pre-christian era. Never being one to pass a chance, I had a wee drinkie and I am happy to report that I have some 10 hours later suffered no ill effects and my insides seem to be in fine fettle however it seems I am still a gobsite and these miraculous waters have perhaps not the power that has been ascribed to them. 🙁

Now the walk itself has been documented in several places however it is a shortish dander and not really long enuff for Andy and I .. so we Tweaked it a little to make it more like a proper walk and not a rather steep stroll. This is what we did….

Enter St.Aidan’s graveyard above the well and walk along the path and take the step almost directly in front of you. There is a sign that warns the steps are slippy and the paths muddy … THEY ARE NOT LYING!!. Take the steps and at the top you will find a gate, go through it and continue up the small forest path. In a couple of hundred yards you will come to a more substantive track that crosses yours. Ignore it and cross and continue in the direction of the original path. Be warned this is very slippy and muddy and claimed Andy on the way up and me on the way down. Our mucky bums stand witness to the conditions under foot. You will be climbing all the way up though the forest and in places it can be quite steep but it is generally easy going.

Coming out of the Forest

At the top of the path you will come to a sturdy style, cross it and turn left and climb a short rise and you will be greeted with your first proper sight of the cliffs. which it has to be said are very impressive and not a little daunting.
The going changes here to firm grassy meadow, but be careful there are lots of scattered granite boulders which could cause a trip to the unwary walker!

I believe this is a Welsh Cobb

There is a path of sorts which runs along the edge of the forest. Follow this keeping the forest on your left and the cliffs on your right. You will cross several walls and fences but all have either gates or styles. Please close any gates you open and keep your dogs under control if you have them with you! There are sheep, cows and horses in these fields!. Eventually you will come to a more substantial path that leads down into the forest again and the forest turns up to near the base of the cliffs.

Ulster Way Sign Post

Ignore this path and head up to the base of the cliffs and continue along the edge of the forest, through more gates and styles. Soon the forest reaches right up to the cliff edge and you should go through a gate and follow the path along for a while, still climbing until you come to a picnic table and an “Ulster way” Signpost.  LIke all sign posts you should totally ignore it 🙂 if you follow it to the the right you end up on the road heading for Downhill and Castlerock. Instead take the track opposite the signpost that leads up hill. This is a forestry track and covered in loose sharp stones so go canny!. Follow the track up until it meets an intersecting track going left to right. Turn Right and continue on. After a few 100 yards the track just stops. However you should be able to make out a track leading up into the recently cleared area. It does look rather like a stream but it is actually a track.

Gortmore on the bishops road

Don’t forget to look behind you, something walkers are prone not to do, if you do you will be treated to a view over to the escarpment at Gortmore on the Bishop’s Road … and yes that is a blue sky in Norn Iron in October and yes it was quite warm!! Follow the path up until you meet the tree line. Beware!! The cliffs are about 100m to your right so keep on the path with the trees to your left!

After 1km you will come to a firebreak and the path veers to the right and takes you to within a few feet of the edge of the cliffs… it is one f**k of a long way down so keep your dogs on the lead and your wits about you. Just before you reach Binevenagh lake you will be treated to a stunning view of Donegal in the distance and Lough Foyle and Magilligan strand laid out, billiard table smooth, below you.

Binevenagh Lake

Binevenagh lake is a good place to stop and have a coffee at around 3.5 miles in and you will need it. The walk up until now has been all up hill and steep in places. There is a small damn at the end of the lake right on the path and this is a good place to stop and sit and take in the view. Although the walk has been lovely up to now the best is yet to come!.

Glider

Once rested and coffeed keep on the path and leave the lake behind you, If you are lucky you may see gliders skim the ridge top only feet above your head.

If you are REALLY lucky you will see nature’s gliders, falcons, buzzards and even an eagle. No such luck for us today but we did have 3 man made gliders for company.

The Narrow Path

Follow the path down and soon you will come to a VERY VERY Steep bit that runs down the steep ground at the end of cliffs. Around half way down turn right and follow one of the sheep paths along the cliffs between cathedral high buttresses and in and out of depressions, ridges and hummocks. This is truly stunning and well worth the effort of getting around. There are some pretty sheer slopes, but they are grassy and the risk of injury is slight,

Cliffs

Mind you, be careful of the boulders that are scattered everywhere having fallen from the cliffs above which are … well … pretty awesome.

Follow the cliffs around until you find a bright blue pipe running along the ground. Follow this pipe down and you will end up back in the meadow at the top of the forest. Turn left and you will find the style and then it is just a case of following the path back to the car park at St.Aidan’s.

This walk is not the longest at 7 Miles, not the highest at 380m, but pick your day, wear clothes you don’t mind getting muddy, take a stout stick and a friend and you will not be disappointed. This is a 10/10 walk!

PS Here is a link to the FB gallery of all the pictures I took